Summit push

On Monday 10 Apr we will start the Summit push.

We must climb at least 6 days to the top and 2 days back with many deep snow and obstacles on the way.

God with us.

Share this:

Puja

Today was Puja, a Budistic prayer for the mountain to allow us to climb the summit. This is a holiday in BC.

Now we look forecast, waiting for good weather for going up.

Share this:

C2 acclimatization

I was one night in C1 and two nights in C2 on 5540m. Hike toward C3 5700m. But, it was deep snow and I must come back. But who thinks over 8000, that is not enough.

At night You can hear avalanches. Scared does it Yours?

Now I am in BC, in very good condition.

 

Share this:

C1 acclimatization

I was in C1 and slipping for two nights for adaptation to high altitude it was very deep snow. In C1 nearly 1m. With the grace of strength of four young and good people who made the path, we reach C1 at 3 PM.

This was: Sajid Ali Sadpara, son of Ali Sadpara died at K2, Shehrose Kashif youngest 10×8000, Alina Popkova from Moscow. Amit from India

We planned to go to C2 but not possible. I had two wonderful days. My sherpa Thenzyng made me mountain medicine: tea of chopped ginger, garlic, and salt. This gives me good energy.

Now two-day rest in BC.

Share this:

Base camp arrival

I arrived in BC at 4300m from Dana at 1440 m.

Just for 10min almost 3000 m.

Only five days from home. It was good weather in the early morning from 6 to 10 AM BC on the small snow.

The pilot was Simone Moro I made with him many selfies. Now I am in good condition Good lunch, a good appetite

Share this:

Dhaulagiri

Danas je dan priprema; dokupljivanje opreme, baterija… Šišanje, pakovanje dva bureta za BC, transportna torba za 6-7 dana trekinga, ručni prtljag… Treba rasporediti gde šta treba. Sada sam video da sam zaboravio UV kremu za sunce i eto problem. Potražiću sutra u Pokhari. Jedne sam godine zaboravio debele dokolice pa sam molio po BC da mi neko da rezervne. Našao sam, tri broja veće. Opet problem.
Ekspedicija je stalni rad i rešavanje prepreka
I always win; If I lose I learn. (Mesi)

Share this:

Lho tse 8516 summit 17. May 2017

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Summit Lho tse 8516 17. May 12h Me and Nima Dorgy Sherpa

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
View down to BC – Kumbu glacie, Nuptse 7600 and left other Lho tse peak with ice block; like crown.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Summit Lho tse 8516m 17. May 12h

Looking down from summit. Me and my sherpa Nima Dorjy Finsih Lho tse Me and Nima Dorgy Sherpa

Himalaya dream team
Dream team C2 6400m – Me 6 x 8000 peak and Mehdi Gholipour Iran 5 x 8000 , Lakpa Sherpa many-many peak, Ferran Latorre Espana 14 x 8000 peak , Azim Gheichisa Iran 14 x 8000, Mingma David Sherpa many many 8000 peak, Ang Rinje Sherpa many many 8000 peak.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
C3 7300m

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Near C3 7300m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
C2 6400m down to BC
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Beginning Climbing Lhotse face 6900m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Looking from Lhotse face 6900m to C2 6400m, gklacie…
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Lhotse face
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
C1 6100m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Kalapathar 5550 My first Himalayan peak 2003. Again summit.

Himalaya ptica
Himalayan pheasant
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Me, North rige, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse from Pumori BC 5700m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Me and Lhotse, Everest…
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Lhotse 8516 from Pumori BC 5700m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Nort side for summit Everest from Tibet
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Everest Lhotse from Pumori BC 5700m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Khumbutse, Changtse, Nort rige, Everst, Lhotse
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Everest, Lhotse Nuptse
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Amadablam, Kantenga, Tamserku, Kumbu glacie, Pumori lake
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Khumbutse, Changtse Lho la Everest Nuptse, down BC
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Lobuche 4950 Himalayan raven lover
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Lobuche 4950m
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Climbing and treaking group
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Happy New Year 2074
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
With Serbian Treking group from Kikinda and Chin Chuan
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Helooo Yak
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Pudja relic
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Dingboche 4300m tillage
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Memory plate of my late friends
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Legend Carlos Sorya 78 – my idol

Share this:

Lhotse 2016 – Sišao sam u BC

Do crvenog kruga sam došao.

Lhotse

Lhotse map
Stigao sam do C4 – 8000m Na korak do vrha

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
C1 6100

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
C2 6400 pogled niz glečer

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Put za C3
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Padina Everesta – South col
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

C2 Lho tse

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Do crvene tačke sam stigao 19. Maja oko 13h – Trebalo je da odmorimo to popodne i te noći krenemo na vrh – ali lavina iz kuloara, pogibija šerpasa… povrede… promrzline… Nepalsko ministarstvno je javilo da je vrh nebezbedan i da se zatvara za dalje uspone… Kraj ekspedicije

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Posle 8000u C2 – nisam iscrpljen. Vrh sam mogao popeti kao od šale.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Vratio sam se.
Dobro sam.
Bio sam sasvim spreman da bez poteškoća popnem Lho tse
Loše vreme, nesretne okolnosti, naredba nepalskog ministarstva da se zatvara vrh… sprečile su me u tome.
Lho tse ni posle tri godine niko nije popeo…
Vrh je tehnički težak i zahteva maksimum fizičke i penjačke spremnosti

Zahvaljujem svima koji su pratili moj sajt.
Zahvaljujem na lepim komentarima podrške…
Ostaje mi samo da i dalje sanjam Lho tse i koliko mi je blizu bio.
U šali kažem: bio sam k`o ispod Žeželja, samo da istrčim… Ali ne da se
Čovek snuje, Bog odlučuje.

21. Maj 2016.
5-6 pokušaja izlaska na vrh završavalo se lavinama povredama a u poslednji 19 V pogibijom šerpasa.
Stigao sam do 8000m. Kuloar je pun suvog dubokog snega a nagib je oko 70′
BC je formirao tim od 20 najiskusnijih da postave fiksno uže ali Lho tse se ni ove godine ne može popeti.
Sišao sam u BC.
OK sam.
Spasilački helikopteri non-stop lete.
Puno je umrlih promrzlih obolelih nestalih u pukotinama.
Ljudi dolaze nespremni neiskusni.
Misle to je samo platis i popnes Everest.
1 VI se uklanjaju lestve i prostup će biti više nemoguć.
Everest i Lho tse ostaju u svom miru do Apr 2017 kada će opet pohrliti stotine da ih popnu.

Share this: