Експедиције
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Summit push
On Monday 10 Apr we will start the Summit push. We must climb at least 6 days to the top and 2 days back with many deep snow and obstacles on the way. God with us.
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Puja
Today was Puja, a Budistic prayer for the mountain to allow us to climb the summit. This is a holiday in BC. Now we look forecast, waiting for good weather for going up.
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C2 acclimatization
I was one night in C1 and two nights in C2 on 5540m. Hike toward C3 5700m. But, it was deep snow and I must come back. But who thinks over 8000, that is not enough. At night You can hear avalanches. Scared does it Yours? Now I am in BC, in very good condition.
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C1 acclimatization
I was in C1 and slipping for two nights for adaptation to high altitude it was very deep snow. In C1 nearly 1m. With the grace of strength of four young and good people who made the path, we reach C1 at 3 PM. This was: Sajid Ali Sadpara, son of Ali Sadpara died at K2, Shehrose Kashif youngest 10×8000, Alina Popkova from Moscow. Amit from India We planned to go to C2 but not possible. I had two wonderful days. My sherpa Thenzyng made me mountain medicine: tea of chopped ginger, garlic, and salt. This gives me good energy. Now two-day rest in BC.
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Base camp arrival
I arrived in BC at 4300m from Dana at 1440 m. Just for 10min almost 3000 m. Only five days from home. It was good weather in the early morning from 6 to 10 AM BC on the small snow. The pilot was Simone Moro I made with him many selfies. Now I am in good condition Good lunch, a good appetite
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Dhaulagiri
Danas je dan priprema; dokupljivanje opreme, baterija… Šišanje, pakovanje dva bureta za BC, transportna torba za 6-7 dana trekinga, ručni prtljag… Treba rasporediti gde šta treba. Sada sam video da sam zaboravio UV kremu za sunce i eto problem. Potražiću sutra u Pokhari. Jedne sam godine zaboravio debele dokolice pa sam molio po BC da mi neko da rezervne. Našao sam, tri broja veće. Opet problem. Ekspedicija je stalni rad i rešavanje prepreka I always win; If I lose I learn. (Mesi)
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Lho tse 8516 summit 17. May 2017
Summit Lho tse 8516 17. May 12h Me and Nima Dorgy Sherpa View down to BC – Kumbu glacie, Nuptse 7600 and left other Lho tse peak with ice block; like crown. Summit Lho tse 8516m 17. May 12h Finsih Lho tse Me and Nima Dorgy Sherpa Dream team C2 6400m – Me 6 x 8000 peak and Mehdi Gholipour Iran 5 x 8000 , Lakpa Sherpa many-many peak, Ferran Latorre Espana 14 x 8000 peak , Azim Gheichisa Iran 14 x 8000, Mingma David Sherpa many many 8000 peak, Ang Rinje Sherpa many many 8000 peak. C3 7300m Near C3 7300m C2 6400m down to BC Beginning Climbing Lhotse…
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Lho tse 8516m success summit 17. May
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Lhotse 2016 – Sišao sam u BC
Do crvenog kruga sam došao. Stigao sam do C4 – 8000m Na korak do vrha C1 6100 C2 6400 pogled niz glečer Put za C3 Padina Everesta – South col C2 Lho tse Do crvene tačke sam stigao 19. Maja oko 13h – Trebalo je da odmorimo to popodne i te noći krenemo na vrh – ali lavina iz kuloara, pogibija šerpasa… povrede… promrzline… Nepalsko ministarstvno je javilo da je vrh nebezbedan i da se zatvara za dalje uspone… Kraj ekspedicije Posle 8000u C2 – nisam iscrpljen. Vrh sam mogao popeti kao od šale. Vratio sam se. Dobro sam. Bio sam sasvim spreman da bez poteškoća popnem Lho tse Loše…
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Lhotse 2016 – nocas polazim ka vrhu
16.Maj 2016. Nocas polazim ka vrhu. Ne mozemo ni ovako vecno cekati. Fiksno uze nije postavljeno. Videcemo u hodu. Nema mobilne mreze; nemam setelitski telefon. Sve je u Bozijim rukama.